Indigenous landscaping & garden design
in Johannesburg & Pretoria, South Africa

Top 10 irrigation system problems & solutions

  • Top 10 irrigation system problems & solutions

    Poor installation or design can lead to a number of irrigation problems. Here are some of the most common problems we encounter and how to solve them

    As indigenous landscapers we prefer to not install irrigation for our gardens, and rather rely on rainwater or manual watering of individual plants. But irrigation is useful in certain circumstances, such as newly installed gardens, for lush lawns or thirsty exotics, or for food gardens.

    Unfortunately, there are a number of irrigation problems we frequently encounter, and in most cases, they can be traced back to poor design or poor installation, or inferior materials. In this article we'd like to discuss some of the most common problems and give some advice on how to fix them. Please keep in mind that every irrigation system is unique, and there may be valid reasons why a contractor has installed your system the way they have. Use this list as a guide, and as always, we'd welcome your questions and feedback.

    Herewith are our top 10 irrigation problems and solutions:

    1) Inadequate trenching

    Arguably the most common problem we encounter in irrigation installations is inadequate trenching of the pipes. Trenching is the most labour-intensive part of the installation, and is therefore sometimes neglected. Many installations are only trenched to the depth of the pop-ups (usually 20-30 centimetres), because this makes it easier - and cheaper - to join the pop-up to the pipe. Unfortunately, poor trenching can result in pipes frequently being punctured, either by yourself or your gardener. As a general rule – and unless there are extenuating circumstances such as rock or house foundations – pipes should be trenched to a minimum of 400mm below the surface, and pop-ups joined to the pipe via swing-joint risers or flexible pipe:

    Not only does this keep the pipes well away from ordinary gardening tools (such as garden forks), but swing-joints allow you to easily adjust the height of the pop-ups in future if the height of the soil changes.

    2) Lack of head-to-head design

    Perhaps the most common design flaw we see in installations is the lack of head-to-head design, which results in dry spots, overwatering, or underwatering of certain areas of the garden. It's a common misconception that if water from a sprinkler is 'reaching' a particular area, then that area is being watered. But the area covered by a single sprinkler is not watered evenly, because (as of writing) there isn't a sprinkler technology capable of this. In most cases sprinklers put down more water at the head of the sprinkler, resulting in an underground water profile that looks like this:

    To create an even precipitation over an area, one needs a second sprinkler, placed at the outer radius of the first. Your underground water profile would then look like this:


    This is known as head-to-head, and - provided each sprinkler has the same precipitation rate - creates an even precipitation over that area. Here are two scenarios from a top-down/design perspective for a rectangular section of lawn:


    There are some exceptions. If you are watering a narrow strip garden, for example, then you can use strip nozzles instead. Capillary action through the soil in the narrow bed will then create a relatively even underground water profile. Likewise, if you are watering shrubs against a wall, you can use sprinklers that reach double the distance. Water droplets will then hit the foliage and trickle down, helping to even out the underground water profile.

    3) Incorrect pipe sizes

    Another common problem is incorrect pipe sizes - specifically pipes that are too narrow for the distance required. When water flows through a pipe a certain amount of pressure is lost due to friction (known as 'friction loss'). Factors affecting this include the diameter of the pipe, the length of the pipe, and the rate of flow (litres/min), amongst others. (Fittings, roughness of the pipe, and water temperature are also factors). Unfortunately, all too frequently, we see narrow pipes - usually 20mm LDPE pipe - used over too long a distance, resulting in a loss of pressure to the sprinklers. All sprinklers have a specific pressure rating at which they work most efficiently, and a loss of pressure degrades their performance and reduces their area of coverage. Additionally gear drives (rotors) require sufficient pressure in order to rotate, and may stop turning if the pressure in your system is too low. Calculating friction losses requires a friction chart or online calculator, but is an important step in the design of a system. If you currently have pressure related problems due to incorrect pipe sizes, you could try switching to nozzles that use less water (i.e have lower flow rates), or using a stronger pump (if you have a pumped system). Ideally though, pipes should be sized correctly to begin with, so removing old pipes and replacing them with new ones is the most appropriate solution.

    4) Poor quality cabling

    Comms cables such as these on the right can cause electrical problems on your system and could void your manufacturer's warranty

    Automated irrigation systems make use of solenoid valves, which open and close to release water to your pipes and sprinklers. Power to the solenoid coils is supplied from the controller through cabling, with each station having its own cable and a shared common wire. Unfortunately, some systems are installed using inferior cabling, most frequently communications (comms) cables, which are not suitable for underground use.

    Comms cables used on this system were left unprotected and exposed to moisture in the irrigation box. Apart from breaking easily, they shorted one of the solenoid coils, requiring replacement and repair

    These cables can cause problems with irrigation systems, including shorting of coils or even shorting of a controller. In some cases, manufacturers may void the warranty if it is found that communication cables were used on a system where their controller has blown. For most systems, 1.0mm GP wire should be used for connections from the controller to the valves, and these cables should be placed in conduit (either 20mm or 25mm PVC or LDPE). Connections at the valves should also be waterproofed, preferably with silicone connectors. Finally, cables should be trenched appropriately, and - where possible - laid in the same trenches as the irrigation pipes, 400mm below ground.

    The repaired box - a new coil and 1.omm GP wire in conduit, connected with silicone snaplocks

    5) Mixing heads with different precipitation rates and pressure ratings

    ABOVE: A Rainbird 12van nozzle with a precipitation rate of 40 mm/hr (square spacing)
    BELOW: A Hunter MP2000 nozzle with a precipitation rate of 10 mm/hr (square spacing)

    Understanding precipitation rates is one of the most important aspects to irrigation design, but is sometimes neglected, especially when maintenance on an existing system is conducted. Different sprinklers put down water at different precipitation rates, so mixing sprinklers with different precipitation rates can lead to overwatering or underwatering of certain areas of your garden. A 12-foot Rainbird cone nozzle, for example, has a precipitation rate of 40mm/hr (with square spacing). In contrast, a Hunter MP Rotator nozzle has a precipitation rate of 10mm/hr (with square spacing) - i.e. four times less water per hour. It's not difficult to understand then that if you have mixed these two nozzles on the same station, why one area of your garden is getting more water than the other. Additionally, the above two nozzles have different pressure ratings, so running them on the same station is inefficient use of one or the other. Similar problems occur when cone nozzles are mixed with rotors/gear-drives, as gear drives usually have lower precipitation rates. To avoid these problems, it's important to first understand the precipitation rates of each of your sprinklers, and to only use sprinklers with similarly matched precipitation rates and pressure ratings on the same zone.

    6) Pipes crimped by tree roots

    The roots of an Acacia (=Vachellia) sieberiana (Paperbark) have crimped these irrigation pipes

    One of the most common problems in established gardens is the crimping of pipes by tree roots. Sometimes this is due to pipes that have not been trenched correctly, but for the most part it is because the commonly used low-density (LDPE) pipe and fittings are too weak to handle the pressures of a large tree's root system. Sometimes - depending on where in the pipe this problem has occurred - crimped pipes can lead to burst pipes, because there is no longer any release of pressure via the sprinklers.

    If you find that one half of your garden's sprinklers is working, but the other half is only trickling water, then this might be the problem. Troubleshooting it can be simple, provided you have access to the pipe on both sides of the tree.

    Below is a test we conducted on two LDPE pipes that had been laid in the same trench:

    At 2.2bar, the first pipe shows a flow rate of 44.9 litres per minute
    At 2.2bar, the second pipe shows a flow rate of only 26.1 litres per minute - a 40% drop in flow rate. As this pipe was in the same trench as the one above, and there were no leaks or flow restrictions at the valves, the problem was traced back to crimping by tree roots

    Fortunately repairing a crimped pipe is relatively simple: dig down and find the affected pipe, then cut and replace it. If possible, avoid cutting the offending root and rather divert the new pipe around the root system - your irrigation is there to support the garden, not the other way round!

    For new installations the use of hi-density (HDPE) pipe and fittings can mitigate these problems, so although these materials are more expensive, they provide a robust and long-lasting irrigation solution.

    7) Overwatering

    This Buddleja saligna (False Olive) - showing yellowing of the leaves - was being overwatered by an irrigation system

    Overwatering leads to many problems in gardens, and is usually the result of poor irrigation design or incorrect timing/scheduling. We've met homeowners who were watering their gardens twice a day, every day, which was a waste of water and damaging to their plants. Plants that have been overwatered are susceptible to fungus and disease, whilst root systems of trees may remain shallow, thereby compromising their stability. To avoid overwatering your garden it's important to know the required amount of water for your plants per week, and to schedule your system accordingly.

    Yellowing lawn is a possible sign of overwatering - here around the sprinkler head

    On the highveld, the recommended amount of water for 'thirsty' gardens - that is gardens with large areas of lawn or species with high water requirements - is 25mm per week in summer. This 25mm should be spread evenly over the week, and only on alternate days (e.g. 8mm on Monday/Wednesday/Friday). Knowing your plant's water requirements and the precipitation rates of your sprinklers will help you calculate these figures. In winter, some plants go dormant, and may not require water at all. In these cases, irrigation systems should be set to reduce watering automatically - by using the seasonal adjust settings on the controller - or turned off altogether. Lastly, technologies such as rain sensors can pause irrigation when it is raining, and new controllers can connect to weather forecasts to pause the system if rain is expected.

    8) Clogged nozzles & filters

    Clogged filters should be removed and cleaned under running water. The pipe can then be flushed, and the nozzle and filter replaced

    One of the most important maintenance tasks on an irrigation system is ensuring that the nozzles and filters are clear of dirt and debris. In some cases, especially after a pipe repair, nozzles and filters can become blocked with sand, something that usually occurs at the end of a line. If all the sprinklers in a zone are working fine, but the last one or two are only dribbling water, then the problem might be a clogged filter and dirt in the pipe. To resolve this, remove the head of the nozzle and clean the filter under running water, then run the system for a few seconds with the nozzle removed. This flushes out any remaining debris in the pipe, and the filter and nozzle can then be replaced.

    9) Micros requiring constant maintenance

    Micro sprinklers are small emitters that are joined to your pipes via micro tubing. They are useful for difficult to reach places - such as potted plants - and are easy to install and use. In most cases they are attached to stakes, which makes them easy to move around. Unfortunately, they are frequently overused, often in places where other - more robust - sprinklers would be more appropriate. Micros require regular maintenance because the stakes are easily moved (often by dogs), and the tubing can easily be punctured by a gardener's fork. The heads may also pop off, or be accidentally removed, resulting in a wastage of water. Micros do have their place, but if you find they are a constant maintenance headache rather consider a more robust solution, such as pop-ups, risers, or drip irrigation, or consider manually watering your potted plants.

    10) Dogs chewing sprinkler heads

    Dogs are our family, but they can be a real nuisance when they start chewing your sprinklers. The biggest problems tend to occur with risers, which are permanently above ground and therefore easy targets for an energetic dog. Short of taking your dogs for longer walks (to expel that pent-up energy), the easiest solution is to convert your risers to pop-ups, which would then be visible only when your system is running. (Set the system to run in the early morning or late evening when your pets are indoors or asleep). Alternatively, you could switch to galvanised risers and brass fittings, which are more expensive, but which will probably (hopefully!) solve your problem.

    Read our article on garden problems and solutions here for more on dogs in the garden

    16 comments on “Top 10 irrigation system problems & solutions”

    1. Dear Ryan,

      I have 2x 2500 liter tanks connected to Vortex pump and then connected to 2 sellenoid switches which are manually operate to irrigate the garden. It works very well ( One at a time). Problem If I don't close pipe from tank to motor with sellenoid switches closed the water drains from the supply tank. Please advise possible cause. The supply tanks are
      ±700mm higher than the motor and 18 meters away from motor

      1. Hi Wynand,
        Thanks for your message.
        It may be best to send pictures of your setup, to better gauge how to assist. Generally though, if your solenoid switches are solenoid coils/irrigation valves, then these should close automatically after their power is turned off, in the same way as a tap is turned off. So if they were powered by a controller, when the station is turned on the valves would open and allow water through, and when the station is stopped, they would close, preventing water. If however those valves have debris inside them, then they can remain open, which would result in them not closing properly, and would therefore drain your tank.
        In your case you say you're manually operating them, so I'd need to see how you do this - perhaps by the valve's bleed screw?
        Or perhaps you have a different type of solenoid switch.

    2. 1 controller, and 4 valves. Turning on the controller manually, and no water. I can hear the solenoids clicking. Main is open, and I can turn on the valves with opening the bleed screw. Any ideas??

      1. Hi Christopher,
        Thanks for contacting us.
        This might necessitate some troubleshooting, but as a start, when you say main, do you have a master solenoid valve, or are you referring to the main isolation valve (e.g. a ball valve?).
        This could be due to another isolation valve somewhere, a faulty cable, blown/failed solenoid valves, or perhaps a faulty controller (some controllers can fail in a way that they send power to one station but not the others).
        First step would be to try and manually get water flowing through the system, which you seem to already be trying.
        Let us know if you still require further assistance.


    3. Hi Tx for this insightful and meaningful advice regarding irrigation. I live in a little dorpie Heidelberg WC and want to setup an irrigation system. I am in the process of digging a pond 4L x 3,5W x 2,5D. I need some advice regarding pump, piping and sprinklers to use. I was looking at the fixed pop-up sprinkler. The garden’s layout 10m x 13m and is divided into 4 corners with a walkway in between.(cross)

      1. Hi Gustav,
        Thanks for your mail and comments.
        Regarding the layout of the garden, do you have lawn & bedding, or only one or the other?
        The simplest installation would be to water the whole garden equally, but you can make more efficient use of the water if you separate lawn and beds, because bedding areas may only require half or less the amount of water as your lawn (depending on the plant types).
        The above answer would dictate the piping and sprinkler layout, so if you could provide a basic garden design layout then we could advise further.
        Secondly, are you going to have a separate tank for the irrigation, or do you want to pump water from the pond? If the latter, how are you going to top up the pond? If you're going to use a municipal top-up then you may not be able to have fish, due to the chlorine in the municipal supply. If you have access to borehole water, then that would probably be fine (assuming it's been tested and is clear of contaminants).
        If, however, the pond is a completely separate entity from the irrigation, and you're going to use a municipal supply, then we'd need to know your pressure and flow rates (3.5/2.5/1.5/0bar) in order to calculate the number of zones, piping, and possibly the sprinkler types.
        I think answers to the above would be a good starting point.


        1. Hi Ryan thank you for the reply, I have the following in each corner(no lawn); lavender on the border ; 3x rose bushes in the middle, 1 row sheenas gold bushes.
          We get ‘leiwater’ every 2nd Thursday and that is how the pond will be topped up, no municipal water will be used. I am also channeling water from the gutter to the pond. So in other words the pond will be filled every second week with river water.. Thank you

        2. Hi Ryan I don’t know if you got my reply. First we get ‘leiwater’ river water every 2nd Thursday which I will use to fill the pond.( it comes via a channel) I am also setting up my gutter so that the water flows to the pond.
          The garden layout is as follows, no lawn, I have Golden dew drop(duranta repents In the middle row. Lavender going across and 3 white rose bushes in the center of each block. The garden is basically a square divided into 4 corners, water fountain in the middle, with a pathway running in the middle and across. Hope it makes sense, thanks

          1. Hi Gustav,
            It’s always best to see the garden, as there are likely factors that can’t be articulated over email.
            But attached is a sample design based on what I think you have.
            For a start, there are two options: either you can try and water the whole garden as one, but you will waste water on the paving, or you can split the area into the four blocks.
            I’ll assume the latter for now.
            In this instance you must have four sprinklers per block, one for each corner, to ensure you have an even precipitation over the area.
            If the width of the pathway is 1m, then the dimensions of each block are going to be about 4.5 x 6m.

            We can now choose sprinklers.
            Since we don’t have an exact square, we need to make a compromise on the radius of the sprinkler. Because we don’t want to waste water on the paving, I’m going to suggest a sprinkler with a radius of about 4.5m.
            Here are some options:
            - You could use cone nozzles: A 15ft cone nozzle has a radius of 4.6m, so this is close. You might get some overspray if you are using risers, but you can turn the nozzles down slightly by turning the screw at the top. (12ft cone nozzles give you about 3.7m, so this seems a bit short, but they might be a practical option)
            - You could use rotatory nozzles, such as an MP 1000 Rotator. These are water efficient in the sense that the water stream is less affected by wind, and they have a lower precipitation, so there is less risk of saturation and run-off. The radius of the MP1000 is 4.1m.
            - You could also use gear drives, such as a Hunter PGP, in which case you might have more freedom as to the nozzle selection and pump sizing, since you could use the nozzle screw to adjust the radius.

            For simplicity, I’m going to select the 15ft cone nozzle.
            The Hunter 15ft nozzles put down about 3.6 litres/min on a quarter arc, at 2.1bar.
            You have 16 quarters, so you will be putting down about 57.6 litres/min, at 2.1bar.
            So if you want to run this garden on one station, you’d need a pump that can put out 57 litres/minute at 2.1bar. (That’s where the pump curves come in)
            This might be too expensive a pump for your needs, so you could then choose a pump that can do 30 litres/minute at 2.1 bar, and run the garden as two stations.
            The best would be to take this plan to a pump/irrigation supplier and get their opinion. Please make sure to tell them the @2.1bar, or 21m head rating.

            When it comes to installing the cone nozzle, I would put them on risers, to get above your hedges. These are the ‘green’ standpipes you see everywhere. You can get these at most hardware/garden outlets.
            As for how long to water for, well you’ve got some thirsty plants, so you might need to put down up to 25mm/week in summer.
            Assuming an area of about 108sqm (4.5x6x4) you might need to put down up to 2700 litres/week (108x25).
            Which means a total runtime of 46.8 minutes per week (2700/57.6), which equates to roughly 15 minutes three times a week (mon/wed/fri)
            Your pond can hold up to 35000 litres (4x3.5x2.5x1000), so theoretically you’d have enough water to water the garden for 12.9 weeks. But obviously the pump would not sit right at the bottom, and you’d have to factor in water loss due to evaporation etc.

            I hope this gives you some ideas, and maybe some answers.


    4. Hi,
      I have recently moved into a retirement complex which has borehole water. I have a small garden and a bit of lawn but I only get 2 slots of 15 minutes each week. Using a 12 mm garden hose I have to move quickly to get a reasonable amount of water. I have used microjets quite extensively but I don't think that I'll get sufficient throughput in such a short time. The supply line is 25mm and the pressure is very high.


      1. Hi Graeme,
        Thanks for your question, it is an interesting scenario. I think the ideal would be to have your own tank which you top up with the borehole water when it is supplied to you. You could then use your own pump to irrigate your garden, and at times that suit you. It would make for more efficient use of the available water. For example, you could water in the early morning when there is less risk of evaporation before the plants have taken it up.

        If a tank is not an option though then I think there are two alternatives. The first is to use your existing micro system, and the second would be to redesign the irrigation to make it more water efficient. In both cases you'll need to get your water pressure and flow rate tested, so that we know what we're working with. We need the flow rates at 3.5bar, 2.5bar, 1.5bar, and 0bar (fully open). Once we have these we can calculate how many micros you can run efficiently, or what sprinklers to use in a new layout. As an example, if your borehole supply is 30 litres a minute at 2bar, then you can run 30 micros (most micros use 1 litre/minute). But if your flow rate is lower, or if you have too many micros, then we'd need to reduce their number or use an alternative sprinkler type, such as cone or rotary nozzles. Conversely if your pressure is too high then you might blow your pipe fittings if you're not releasing that pressure through the sprinklers. In that case you'd need more sprinklers, or a flow control valve, or a pressure reducing valve.

        Pressure/flow-rate test kits are available at irrigation outlets, or you can ask a professional irrigation installer to test it for you. If you're in Gauteng we could assist.

        Lastly, and most importantly, it's worth calculating how much water you actually need for your garden. As a general rule you can use a figure of 25mm per week in summer. So if your garden is 30 square metres, you need at most 750 litres per week (30sqm x 25mm). Again, using the above example, if your borehole supply is 30 litres a minute at 2 bar, then in those 2x15 minute slots per week you'd get 900 litres, which would be more than enough to water the garden and you could reduce the watering time and save the complex 150 litres of water. Additionally established bedding areas or indigenous/water-wise plants may only require 5-15mm per week, so one could save even more on these areas.

        I hope this helps but let us know if you need more assistance.


    5. What will be the best pipe to use underground, 25mm HDPE or 25mm LDPE. My feed pipe from the meter is 25mm HDPE and the pressure is 5 Bar with a flow rate of 25 l/m.

      1. Hi Nathan,
        Thanks for visiting our site and your message.
        We'd need to know a bit more about your flow rates at different pressures (3.5/2.5/1.5bar etc.), as well as about the garden and what sprinklers you want to use, but generally the decision to use LDPE or HDPE depends on how robust you want your underground pipework to be. Most home irrigation sprinklers only require between 2-3bar to operate efficiently, so class 3 LDPE pipe will be sufficient to handle this. We use HDPE not for the internal water pressure but to cater for the external pressures that underground pipes and fittings are subjected to, such as tree roots etc. So unless your sprinklers require larger pressures to operate (3bar+) you can keep your main pipe feed to the valves as HDPE (to handle the closed pressure), and then use either LDPE or HDPE for the spraylines.


    6. I have an index system now and want to switch to individual valves with a smart controller. All the videos I see a "whatever works" approach to plumbing the valves. Is this true, just get A to B or should there be a method to the madness?

      1. Hi Shawn,
        Thanks for your query. If you're going to install valves and a controller then it's best to design the system first, which would be based on your garden layout and the pressure & flow from your municipal supply (or tank/pump if you want to use these). Designing first would save you a lot of costs with regards to water usage in the future.
        Let us know where you are based and we can come and advise, or preferably search for an irrigation specialist in your area.


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    • Steven Green, GreenstoneSteven Green, Greenstone

      I was truly blown away by the service, in my experience there are very few companies now days that do as they say, not only was the job completed earlier than estimated but little things such as sourcing paint for the walling and replacing broken walkway steps from the original manufacturer were sourced and delivered within a few hours. I was expecting to have to do it myself. I can definitely recommend this company to anyone for all landscaping requirements, by far the best service provider I have dealt with in a very long time. Thank you Ryan and Glenice it was a pleasure working with you!

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    • Lindy-Ann & John CunhaLindy-Ann & John Cunha

      For anyone looking to redo their garden and entertainment area, I can’t recommend Grounded Landscaping enough. They are an award-winning Johannesburg based landscaping company, headed up by Glenice Ebedes. They specialise in indigenous gardens, and focus on quality and attention to detail.

      Glenice and her partner Ryan make the most amazing team. They are so kind and gentle but fiercely professional too. They are uber efficient and super talented. Last year we briefed Glenice to design a beautiful but low maintenance garden for us, and right off the bat, we were impressed.

      I have never had a garden before and my green thumb is more a consequence of painting than gardening, so I really didn’t know where to start. Our designs were presented as professional layout renderings with full descriptions and explanations for the flowers chosen and trees selected. So much thought went into what plants would go where and why.

      Fast forward 6 months and our little Eden has really begun to take hold and flourish. I am so very proud of our beautiful garden and spend as much time in it as humanly possible. It has been perfectly designed as low maintenance as requested and as Glenice put it so perfectly, “this garden has been created for the birds, bees and butterflies” and I couldn’t be happier.

      *excerpt from

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    • Alex Dohm, FerndaleAlex Dohm, Ferndale

      Thank you to Ryan and his team for our garden makeover! From the word go, Ryan was professional, punctual and so easy to work with. He always made sure to take our ideas and requests on board while adding his knowledge, creativity and experience to ensure a superb end result. Our questions were always answered promptly and advice was always just an email away. Ryan constantly supervised his team during the project and delivered exactly what was promised. We would highly recommend Grounded Landscaping.

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    • Natalie Skoutellas, BedfordviewNatalie Skoutellas, Bedfordview

      From the moment I contacted Grounded Landscaping I received professional yet personal service from Glenice. Upon our first meeting I knew I could trust Glenice to give me the look & feel I wanted & I was right. Glenice goes the extra mile to make sure you’re happy. When she saw I had small kids eager to play outside, she pushed her team to work faster. We ended up needing extra work done like piping, drainage & irrigation & yet the job was completed before the time she initially quoted us on.
      Thank you guys so much. You’re an amazing team. My garden looks awesome.

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    • Mike & Irina, BryanstonMike & Irina, Bryanston

      We found Grounded Landscaping on the internet and we were really satisfied with service provided from the initial planning consultation, through to site work and after sale services. The whole team was professional, hard working and extremely reliable. Ryan Ebedes kept us informed of the progress and any difficulties were dealt with ensuring minimum delay to the project. The whole project was implemented in an efficient way, with outstanding quality, stuck to the budget and schedule outlined from the beginning. As we were away from home, the after sale services provided by the team were really appreciated. We can definitely recommend your services in future to our friends and wish you much success with the business!

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    • Candi Smith, LonehillCandi Smith, Lonehill

      It has been an honour to meet Glenice, Ryan and the Grounded Landscaping team who have completely transformed my garden into the most joyful and serene space with beauty and interest around every corner. Glenice has an inspirational passion and knowledge for gardens, wildlife and the environment and working with Ryan and the team, provided a very professional end to service from the garden design and installation of plants, hard landscaping, lights, veggie garden and a water feature. Glenice and Ryan share their vast knowledge and experience to educate people on the plants, animals and insects that share and enjoy the garden, with interesting and relevant advice on how to care for it. This was more than a project; it has been a fascinating and exciting experience. I highly recommend Grounded Landscaping to anyone looking to transform their home and environment.

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    • Eric & Amelia Kleijn, ParktownEric & Amelia Kleijn, Parktown

      We would like to place on record our sincere thanks and gratitude for the outstanding service we received from Grounded Landscaping. The enthusiasm displayed by all your staff was a delight. It was so refreshing to work with knowledgeable people who clearly love what they do; and more importantly, are very good at what they do.

      We have no hesitation in recommending Grounded Landscaping. They genuinely care about their work and take great pride in it. And it shows! May they grow from strength to strength!

      All good wishes,

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    • Carel Robinson, RandburgCarel Robinson, Randburg

      Excellent client service. Glenice is focused to deliver a complete service to her clients. Attention to small details was done to the T.

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    • Penny Allen, BroadacresPenny Allen, Broadacres

      Having had Glenice create a garden from scratch for my daughter to helping me with my garden on several occasions I cannot speak highly enough of her and her team. Glenice has a real understanding and love for the work she does and it SHOWS !! She has taught me a lot which adds to the overall appreciation of one’s unique space and opens one’s eyes to little aspects of nature that previously were not in one’s awareness. We need more of her in our world. She is an asset to nature.

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  • About us

    Grounded Landscaping is an award-winning landscaping company specialising in indigenous, wildlife-friendly gardens. We are based in the Cradle of Humankind, a world heritage site and part of the grassland biome of Southern Africa. We service most areas of Gauteng, including Johannesburg, Centurion and Pretoria.
    © Copyright 2024 Grounded Landscaping, Gauteng, South Africa, cc 2011/012073/23
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